Nizwa to Jebel Shams: A Journey to the Mountain of the Sun
There are moments that stop you completely (I love when that happens).
Moments when you stand before something so magnificent that all you can do is stare, hold your breath, and whisper thank you to whatever force brought you there.
Jebel Shams did that to me.
WOW. That was my first thought when I stood at the edge of Oman’s Grand Canyon. How did I get so lucky to experience this natural wonder? The beauty was breathtaking, overwhelming, humbling.
But let me take you back to the beginning, to an early Saturday morning in Oman, where this adventure started.
The Journey Begins
8:00 AM. Hotel pickup.
I slid into the back of a 4×4 where three travelers and our amazing guide were already settled in; one solo adventurer like me in the front seat, and two traveling together, nestled in the back seat. Before I could even buckle my seatbelt, they turned around with warm smiles, introduced themselves, and shook my hand. I felt so welcome.
We chatted about life, about travels, about the adventures that brought each of us to Oman. I loved listening to the solo traveler share her amazing journeys across the world. I loved hearing the other two talk about their experiences, their life, their stories. We all clicked so well.
Sometimes you meet people and it just flows; the conversation, the laughter, the ease we feel around each other.
This was one of those mornings.
Nizwa Souk: Colors, Flavors, and Connection
Our first stop: the souk in Nizwa.
The air was thick with frankincense and spices. Colors everywhere – bright fabrics, silver, piles of dates in every shade of brown. Voices calling out in Arabic. The maze of stalls invited us to wander, to touch, to taste.
I gulped down fresh coconut water, sweet and warm.
I always have this urge to drink coconut water anytime I find them :).
I bought some dates and cute little tea cups I couldn’t resist. One of the travelers in our group was so nice to share warm delicious Omani bread with us. We chatted, we laughed, we explored together. There’s something about a souk that makes you slow down. You notice everything. The textures, the sounds, the way light filters through the stalls. It was the perfect way to start the day.
Nizwa Fort: Unexpected Sound of Music
After the souk, we wandered over to Nizwa Fort – the old walls, the courtyards, the sense of history. But what I remember most? A group of Omanis singing outside; their voices carrying through the air.
I stood there listening, wandering slowly, soaking it all in. Travel gives you these unexpected beautiful moments you didn’t plan for but will always remember fondly.
Lunch: The Simple Joys
Before heading to Jebel Shams, we stopped for lunch.
I enjoyed grilled fish with rice and a mint lemon drink that was perfectly refreshing.
We sat together, ate, laughed, shared stories. It was simple. It was beautiful.
These are the moments that travel gives you. Sitting with near-strangers who feel like friends, tasting food and feeling completely present.
The Climb: Thrilling and Gorgeous
Then came the drive to Jebel Shams.
The journey itself was absolutely gorgeous. Winding roads, dramatic landscapes, the sense that we were climbing higher and higher into something extraordinary.
And then the 4×4 really kicked in.
The trip up the mountain was thrilling. The vehicle tilted and climbed steep rocky terrain. My heart raced with excitement. I could feel the air getting cooler, and the views expanding with every turn.
And then we arrived.
Jebel Shams: The Mountain of the Sun
I stepped out of the car and—
WOW.
How did I get so lucky to experience this natural wonder?
Jebel Shams. The Mountain of the Sun. Oman’s highest peak, home to the country’s own Grand Canyon. The views were something out of this world. Absolutely spectacular in every direction.
I remember walking around, back and forth, filled with gratitude to be there, to witness all this magnificence. I couldn’t stop staring at the beautiful views. The sheer drops. The layers of rock in shades of rust and gold. The vastness of it all.
That is when I said to myself, “Oman, you are truly beautiful”.
I grabbed coffee from a small shop across the street and just wandered some more. Breathing it in. Taking it all in.
The Edge: Taking the Plunge
And then I saw it.
The edge.
Other travelers were sitting closer to the rim, legs dangling over the canyon, taking in the view from a place I wasn’t sure I could go.
I was nervous at first. Fear whispered its usual warnings. You know that voice that always tries to get us to miss the adventurous things out of our comfort zone?
But one of the travelers in our group noticed. He smiled, stood up, and showed me how to safely step down and sit. His kindness made all the difference. I was so appreciative.
And then I did it.
I sat at the edge.
I felt like I was flying. The canyon stretched out below me, infinite and breathtaking. The wind moved around me. The sun warmed my face.
These are the moments – the moments I always long for, and the moments I hold close.
I was so so happy I took the plunge and didn’t let fear hold me back.
In that moment, I felt fearless.
The Descent: Quiet Joy
Eventually, we had to leave.
On our way back down the mountain, the sunset painted the sky. The light shifted from gold to pink to deep orange. I looked in the rearview mirror and saw Jebel Shams fading behind us, glowing in the last light of day.
It was such a quiet joy. Joy that filled my heart with a smile.
Why This Mattered
This was my first time visiting Oman.
I ventured into the unknown. I said yes to a tour with strangers who became friends. I climbed a mountain I’d only seen in photos. I sat at the edge of a canyon and felt fearless.
I felt proud.
Proud that I had the courage to keep choosing adventures. Proud that I keep meeting the most wonderful people. Proud that I keep having the best experiences, even when, especially when, I don’t know exactly what to expect.
Travel keeps teaching me the same lesson: the unknown isn’t something to fear. It’s something to walk toward with open arms.
Next Time
Before we left, I made myself a promise.
Next time, I’m going to sleep on Jebel Shams. I want to wake up to the Mountain of the Sun, to watch the first light hit those canyon walls, to experience the stillness of dawn at 3,000 meters.
Because some places deserve more than a day trip. Some places deserve to be witnessed at sunrise.
Jebel Shams, I will be back.
Have you ever ventured somewhere that took your breath away? I’d love to hear about it. Share your story in the comments below.
~ Eliza 💛
I hope you always choose an open road to a new adventure.
I booked this trip on Viator.
Comments
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Eloise
Wow! well done on fighting your fear and getting out of your comfort zone. I don’t think I could have sat on the edge, even with friendly encouragements. It looks amazing.
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Eliza
It was amazing once I mastered the courage to sit there, but yes, it was super scary initially :).
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Edna
Beautiful Story. Keep up the good work!
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Kay
This is so awesome! I was in oman earlier this year and had heard about it, but couldn’t find much information on the experience. if i had more time, i would have found out for myself but alas i was just passing through. thank you for giving me insight on this gorgeous canyon! wow!! i’ll have to return one day and sleep on Jebel Shams too!